My Balkan Road Trip
A 100-Day Solo Road Trip in an Old Land Rover
Posted on 10.12.23
Every year, I feel this urge for freedom, for adventure, especially as the early spring approaches.
Last year, I wanted to embark on a long-distance bike ride, despite never having done one in my life. It seemed like a great starting point for a project.
The energy that comes with having such a dream is incredibly powerful for me. It's fueled with ambition and creative ideas, often linked to projects. Fear and discomfort are also part of that feeling. I think we all have those moments, right? A moment of dreaming big, with nothing holding you back.
At some point, it becomes a choice to either listen to it or let it disappear.
Last year, I quickly found enough reasons why it wasn't a good idea, and after a month, my ratio took over and the noise of everyday life made it fade away.
Two months ago, around the same period, I had that burning desire again. Wanting to be alone, on the road, making films of things I find beautiful, all out of my dream car. Something I find both very compelling and also very scarry at the same time.
This time, I listened…
The Conversion
So… I bought my dream car; an old Land Rover Discovery from 1999 to go on a road trip through Europe, with Albania as my destination/direction.
The whole concept behind this adventure is to trust myself when I have ambitious ideas and follow that energy, using it to create. In this case a video diary of my journey and doing everything out of my car.
Why an old Land Rover?
It can be surprisingly challenging to make time for grief in our daily lives, even though it's a way to honour the memory of a loved one. Grieving, as painful as it can be, also feels like paying tribute to the person who has left us. It involves feeling those emotions, reminiscing, and shedding tears. Yet, in our everyday routines, we often run away from these feelings — well, I do.
So, I wanted to be alone in nature, in the spirit of my mom, driving the same car she used to drive. This old Land Rover holds countless memories of our road trips together and is deeply linked to her in my memories. Without knowing, it became my dream car.
Minimal Planning
The only real preparation I did was buying the car and converting it into my tiny home on wheels. Beyond that, I didn’t plan much. My approach was to go where the road took me, relying on spontaneity rather than a set itinerary. While I did note a few recommended spots from Park4night, these were just loose ideas rather than a fixed route.
Slovenia
After driving through beautiful Germany, Austria, and a part of Italy, I found myself at the doorstep of the Balkan Region, in Slovenia. I had no specific destination in mind; everything around me was already breathtaking. I asked ChatGPT for some tips as my tour guide, and it led me to visit Cave del Predil, a lake that forms the natural border between Italy and Slovenia. That's the lake you see in the picture. There was a nice restaurant nearby, and since I had run out of food, I decided to stay and work on my weekly YouTube video, planning to have dinner at the restaurant in the evening.
However, things didn't go as planned. A massive storm swept over the valley, knocking out the electricity. Chatting with the restaurant staff, they suggested a good pizzeria on the Italian side and kindly offered me a spot to sleep in the parking area, with a view on the lake.
Later that night, after enjoying some pizza, the storm was still raging. Many people drove into the parking lot, setting up camp with their campers. The chef, however, was not pleased. He started shouting, making everyone leave – except for me. I was the only one allowed to stay.
The lesson I learned that night was priceless: never park in a restaurant's lot without greeting the staff, being sociable, and eating their food, especially before asking to stay overnight. This simple act of courtesy has proven itself incredibly useful ever since.
After that night, I only paid for a campsite once more. The rest of my travels were smooth, with plenty of kindness and hospitality, all thanks to being kind and connecting with locals, and of course, using park4night.
Croatia
Discovering the Croatian Coastline
As I drove from Slovenia to Croatia's coast, I was filled with a blend of emotions and excitement. The first glimpse of the Adriatic Sea was particularly breathtaking and memorable.
The adventure began with making new friends and going on off-road journeys. From the island of Krk to the island of Pag, I dived into the world of free diving and spearfishing. We navigated the rugged terrain in convoys, creating memories filled with laughter and adventure. This period was an exceptional blend of making new friendships and exploration.
But, in Croatia, wild camping is not allowed, adding an element of challenge in finding suitable sleeping spots, especially with three cars in our convoy. Each night was a mix of stress and adventure, as we sought a place to rest without breaking any rules. because the fees are quite high in Croatia. And one ticket can bring your whole travel budget into chaos.
After spending quality time with my new friends, I felt a pull towards a solo journey. My plan was to leave the group and explore the off-road route to Velebit Nature Park. Apparently one of my friends had the same idea. In a surprising turn of events, we found ourselves at the same sleeping spot the day after we split up. We decided to journey together, him in his Fiat Doblo. This leg of the trip led us through Croatia's secluded, unmapped areas, where we met an old professor mapping the region by foot. I even stood eye in eye with a bear! In the end, I was very happy I shared all these moments with a friend.
As July unfolded, the high season brought significant changes. The beaches in Croatia - once serene - were now overcrowded, and the cost of camping skyrocketed. Coupled with a relentless heatwave, living and working from my car became a test of endurance. The situation reached its peak on the hottest day when I was attacked by a swarm of wasps. This incident was the final straw, making me seek cooler and less crowded places, towards Bosnia.
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Wild Horses and an Unexpected Storm
My journey took me to Livno, a place recommended by fellow travelers for its wild horses. The route was a rugged off-road trail, where, amusingly, a local zipped past me in his old Volkswagen Golf – a testament to the enduring cars of the '90s in Bosnia.
Reaching the top of the mountain pass was like stepping into a prairie, with vast grass landscapes stretching as far as the eye could see. I did spot the wild horses, but my awe was soon overshadowed by the onset of one of the deadliest Balkan storms in years. That experience is a story in itself, but it’s safe to say that visiting Livno is definitely worth it.
After the storm, I sought shelter with a kind elderly couple who welcomed me into their home. The warmth and hospitality I found there were remarkable.
Lukomir
My travels then led me to Lukomir, a village seemingly frozen in time. I ended up staying there for a while, lost in its timeless charm. In Lukomir, I crossed paths with two German hitchhikers. We travelled together, forming a bond of friendship along the way. Parting ways was hard, leaving me feeling empty and nostalgic. But I was learning to see this as part of the journey.
After saying goodbye to the hitchhikers in Sarajevo, a city that's truly worth a visit, I headed towards Montenegro, eager for the next leg of my journey, and embracing being alone again.
Montenegro
Durmitor National Park
Driving into Montenegro from the north and following the P14 Road through Durmitor National Park was an amazing journey. The scenery was simply stunning. Without any specific plans for accommodation, I found myself at a shepherd's place and decided to stop and say hello. That night, I stayed there, joined by a father and son from Turkey. We shared stories, food, and enjoyed a beautiful sunset together.
Wild Horses
From there, I headed to another national park further south. Bad weather kept me inside my car for a few days, but I was lucky to have a group of wild horses visit me while I was having my morning coffee. Wild horses and extreme weather seemed to be recurring themes on this trip.
Being all alone in the Mountains
I also embarked on a four-day off-road route near the Montenegro-Albania border. It was the most challenging part of my trip. Completely alone, with no signal, I experienced true solitude in the mountains. Not speaking for four days and having no contact with anyone else made me feel truly alone for the first time, allowing me to process things by myself. It was a unique feeling, especially in today's world where you can always call or text someone. Realizing the difference this makes was a significant moment for me on this journey.
Albania
Albania was the focal point of my journey. I nearly circled its borders, visiting inland sites like the Permet canyons, Berat city, and Pogradec. My main interest was in natural landscapes, so I spent time in parks, mountains, and near beaches. Along the way, I listened to a brief but informative podcast about Balkan history, which added depth to my understanding of Albania, and the Balkan region in general.
Pollution
While Albania offers much to admire, it's not without its difficulties. Pollution is a visible issue, with litter, the burning of trash, and numerous unfinished concrete structures scattered across various regions. However, amidst these challenges, Albania is a land of untamed natural beauty and freedom. The contrast between the rugged landscapes and the urban development gives a sense of a country that is both wild and unrestricted.
Is Albania safe?
I had the opportunity to stay with a US-based YouTube creator in Pogradec for a few days, which allowed me to immerse myself in the local culture. Our evening strolls through lively streets, filled with friendly locals, imparted a sense of safety and community stronger than what I've experienced in cities like Ghent or Brussels. This vibrant social atmosphere in Albania pleasantly countered the misleading and overly cautious perceptions often held back home.
Greece
The lowest point of my journey
After my time in Albania, I found myself pushing further to Greece. To be honest, I hadn't initially planned to go that far. But there I was in Greece, thinking, "Well, I'm already here. Why not see what's ahead?" The start was anything but smooth. While driving through a fierce storm, I suddenly lost control of the steering wheel. The car crashed into the guardrails. I was left in shock, saddened by the damage to my car, and anxious about the storm that showed no signs of stopping. It was a tough moment, and I remember writing in my journal how it felt like the lowest point of my journey. For the first time, I longed to go home.
Something unexpected happened that night. I met a woman with whom I didn't share a common language. She was Greek and could speak German. Despite this, she invited me to join her for a meal at a local restaurant. We spent hours talking. Surprisingly, I found myself fluently understanding and speaking German, a skill I had picked up after meeting many German travelers along the way. As the night came to an end, I felt a renewed sense of life from listening to the stories of a stranger. It was a vivid reminder of the unique connections travel brings.
Though I began to feel homesick, I decided to keep going, following the coastline to Patras. The storm and the end of the peak season meant that the beaches were almost empty, like having private beaches all to myself, so I took the opportunity to do a lot of skinny dipping – there's nothing quite like it. Swimming naked in the ocean has a profound effect on me, similar to lying under a star-filled night sky; it makes me feel both small and intimately connected with nature.
From Greece, I took a boat from Patras to Bari in Italy. Then, at a slow pace, I began my journey back home, travelling through Italy, Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Luxembourg and Belgium.
Conclusion
As I reflect on my journey, I realize it was more than just a trip; it was a profound lesson in letting go and embracing the unpredictable. For someone who often seeks control, surrendering to the rhythm of spontaneity was a transformative experience. Each day unfolded in its own unique way, teaching me the art of living in the moment and appreciating the simple joys of life.
Travelling with no set plan allowed me to slow down, an experience that felt surprisingly liberating.
The solitude I found in the serene landscapes of Montenegro became the cornerstone of my healing process. It was there, amidst the quiet and beauty of nature, that I confronted my grief and embraced solitude in its truest form. This experience taught me an invaluable lesson about solitude in the age of constant connectivity.
I learned that being alone doesn't necessarily mean the absence of people; it's about the presence of self. The act of putting away my phone and turning inwards was the real journey, one that didn't require travelling to distant lands but rather journeying within.
I share my story in the hopes that it might inspire you to embark on your own adventure. To embrace the discomfort that comes with stepping out of your comfort zone and to discover the exhilarating feeling of being fully alive. Your journey might lead you to distant places, or it might simply be a journey inward. Either way, it's a journey worth taking – to make memories, meet new people, immerse in nature, find solitude, and, most importantly, discover parts of yourself that only such adventures can reveal.
So yes, go on that road trip you always dreamed of doing. I am already planning my next journey ;)
